Enjoy a Paris Stroll Along the Remarkable Coulée Verte

One of my favorite places to stay when visiting Paris is the bustling town of Vincennes. Vincennes lies just beyond the eastern edge of Paris, north of the Bois de Vincennes, Paris’ largest public park. Lodging in this prosperous suburb generally costs less than in the city of light. And after a hectic day of sightseeing, it’s nice to return to the peaceful streets of Vincennes, which are filled with wonderful shops, markets, and restaurants. Thanks to an excellent transportation system, getting from anywhere in Vincennes to anywhere in Paris is quick and easy. Last week, however, my husband Andy and I traveled on foot from our Airbnb in Vincennes to the Place de la Bastille in the heart of Paris, along the vibrant and verdant pathway known as the Coulée Verte.

La Coulée Verte

Built on a former railway path, the 4.7-kilometer (2.9-mile) Coulée Verte is an easy walk. The day we visited was sunny with temperatures in the 60s, perfect weather for a leisurely pace that allowed us to soak in the views and take photos. The eastern starting point, just inside the Périphérique, a busy highway that circles Paris, lies about one mile from the apartment we’d rented in the center of Vincennes. We love to walk, so the added distance was a bonus that led us down new streets, past parks and businesses previously unexplored.

The eastern portion of the route lies at street level, but the landscape on both sides has been planted with various species of trees and plants. Thus, we often had the impression of being far from the hustle and bustle of city life. At the western end of the Coulée Verte, the trail runs along the top of an ancient viaduct. According to Wikipedia, the linear park was the first project in the world to repurpose an elevated railway into urban gardens. From here, the views of Parisian streets below are striking. We didn’t take the time to explore the unique artisan shops housed in the archways beneath the viaduct. But this sounds fun, even if you only plan to gaze at the vitrines.

At the trail’s western end, you have only to walk a few blocks to reach La Place de la Bastille, located on the site of the infamous Bastille prison. We found a bench in the sun and watched a significantly younger generation using their Sunday leisure time to master skateboard and bicycle tricks. This area, like many in Paris, is home to numerous cafés. We enjoyed a late lunch at Le Café Français, which borders the square.

Just outside the restaurant were stairs leading to the Bastille Metro Station, where we boarded Metro line 1. Minutes later, we re-emerged in Vincennes, happy to have discovered a spectacular walking route that we plan to repeat. Below, you’ll find some of my pictures of this well-tended path, which includes examples of eye-catching urban art. I hope you get a chance to visit; if you’ve already been, please let me know what you thought.

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